Ai Ais to Orange River

Last night Charles added another 50 km to our cycling itinerary. It was supposed to be a leisurely morning followed by a short vehicle transfer to the next camp but who could pass up one last sandy gravel cycle?!

Fortunately we drove UP yesterday’s long downhill descent to today’s start point. It was 22C (to start) there was fluffy cloud cover and, it was mostly downhill so perfect cycling conditions…but, as always, something doesn’t align: headwinds! Was struggling to keep my speed above 10km/hr in places! It was a great excuse to stop for photos - the clouds and shadows made the landscape even more dramatic.

This sidewind was not in our favour when vehicles passed - good thing there were only 6 or so all morning

Suddenly at the end of the ride, tarmac and, acres and acres of grape vines juxtaposed next to the rocky desert hills. We are very close to the South African border and agricultural region now.

One other thing that Charles emphasized last night was to NOT take photos around our supply stop or the bus would be stoned. The vineyards need workers and the workers need housing. Beside the strip shopping mall was a shanty town. It was built on a lunar looking landscape with little to no shade. Closest to the parking lot were corrugated metal huts, some with grass walls, and the odd shipping container - no sign of toilet facilities. Higher up there was an interesting neighbourhood of neat grass structures made with a good level of skill and obvious pride. These houses had green/red/black striped flags flying - possibly Angolan migrant workers?

Tim’s picture, not mine.

Up until now we have been off the beaten path or on the tourist circuit. This stop was a jarring reminder of the wealth gap here and how difficult it can be to eke out a living.

Our guides have made huge sacrifices in their personal lives for their jobs. Sandila says his youngest child doesn’t even recognize him any more. These guys have worked 9 months practically non-stop - when the tour ends in Cape Town, they have a two day drive to Jo-burg to return the rental bikes, pick up new ones, do equipment and vehicle servicing and then drive for 2 days direct to Vic Falls for the next tour. Charles is a cape town native so he can see his family. The other two guides are out of luck.  This is the last trip of the season so now they have 3 months “off,” (as in unemployed.”) 

Before guiding, Charles was a professional billiards player and represented South Africa. The prize winnings weren’t that lucrative though so he gave it up for life on the road. He says he’ll spend his off time on his charity that helps kids in need with meals, school and, of course, cycling. They have to pitch in and help with the garden or food prep etc. There are no free rides. With cycling they learn about bike mechanics and maintenance - he even has a group of about 15 girl cyclists. I’m sure the kids love him as he is a big affable guy with a great sense of humour.

A short drove later we arrived at our camp on the banks of the Orange river where cheers broke out when we could see we could pitch our tents on grass! It actually felt like we were camping in someone’s back yard. Some of the thatched  cabanas seemed to be of similar construction to those in the shanty town…

I passed on the afternoon canoeing in favour of a nap on the grass and relaxing  by the pool. I think this is the only day in Namibia when the temp was under 40C!

Dinner was mac’n cheese and steaks - it was good but i am missing my green veggies!

I wanted to buy this t-shirt…

…they didn’t have my size…and go back to this place in cape breton: